Extra-virgin olive oil has become a pantry staple for health-conscious Canadians. Sales of the product, lovingly called EVOO by cooks, have risen consistently in recent years.
However, there’s news that EVOO’s mass production, driven by its popularity, has resulted in compromised quality. That’s creating confusion for consumers.
Why is EVOO so popular? It is the highest-grade of olive oil available, made fresh – like juice – from crushed olives without refinement by heat or chemicals.
Doug Cook, a registered dietitian in Toronto, says EVOO is one of only two oils he recommends to his clients because it is such a good source of monounsaturated fatty acids, which help maintain HDL (the “good” cholesterol). Research suggests the phenolic compounds in EVOO effectively reduce blood pressure by preventing LDL (the “bad” cholesterol) oxidation.
EVOO also is an excellent antioxidant, Cook says. Cell oxidization is the natural breakdown of cells that happens to every living thing. But that process creates leftover, damaged cells called “free radicals,” which damage other cells and can make us more susceptible to disease. Exposure to the sun as well as alcohol, pollution and other factors also create free radicals. An antioxidant-rich diet is critical, according to Cook, in reducing oxidation.
It’s also why you should make sure you’re buying and consuming authentic EVOO.
A book published late last year, Extra Virginity: The Sublime and Scandalous World of Olive Oil, by Tom Mueller, points out that not all so-called EVOO maintains EVOO standards. Some resellers, Mueller writes, add lower-grade oils and artificial colouring to their EVOO before passing it along the supply chain. One olive oil producer estimates that almost half of all EVOO sold in the U.S. has been adulterated. And, in recent years, the Canadian Food Inspection Agency has censured a handful of importers for mislabelling the product.
The problem with counterfeit EVOO is that the very qualities that make the oil so special are lost with tampering.
Teresa Kuhn, co-founder of the Olive Oil Merchant in Kelowna, B.C., an importer of artisan EVOOs from Italy, travels to that country with her husband each year to source small-batch EVOO to sell across Canada. As an EVOO taster (it’s an official task), Kuhn occasionally buys commercial oils from supermarket shelves to test them. “Rarely do I find an oil that isn’t rancid or defective,” she says. While rancid oil won’t hurt you, she says, it also won’t provide you with the health benefits of fresh EVOO.
Here are some tips to ensure the EVOO you buy is authentic:
– Pass on the plastic. Plastic can leach into the oil, Cook says, so it’s best to go for a glass bottle or tin. And, because light speeds up the breaking down of the oil, dark glass is best.
– Insist on extra-virgin. If you’re looking for health benefits, there’s little sense in buying olive oil unless it’s extra-virgin. That means the oil is cold-pressed and first-pressed – and pressed from fresh, whole olives. Lesser oils might reuse the pressed olives.
– Look for a “best before” date. The European Union insists that bottlers of olive oil include an expiration date, 18 months after bottling. Canada does not enforce these rules, but those in the know look for either a “bottled on” date or an expiration date.
– Check the origin. “Packaged in Italy” is too vague and is a strong indication that you’re looking at a commercial-grade olive oil, which may be compromised. The more detail on origin that the label includes, the more likely it’s a pure EVOO.
– Be prepared to pay. Don’t expect to get quality EVOO on the cheap. That one-litre bottle that’s on sale for $4.99 is probably not authentic EVOO. While there are no surefire rules, expect a decent bottle of EVOO to be priced like a decent bottle of wine.IE
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